If previous owners has taken care of the synth it is probably more reliable then a peace of junk.Īlso check out the U-he Diva, it's a great synth with a lot of Model D character.Taking that spark of imagination and transforming it into sound is the most fundamental, exhilarating part of creating music. I'm talking dents, broken keys, knobs and stuff. That said, I have never bought a cheap synth which has been mishandled by previous owners. People always say analog synths are unstable and unreliable but I have had a few and I haven't had any big issues with mine. The biggest problem with the early oscillator boards are when you change the pitch of the oscillators, then you need to re-tune the oscillator you change the pitch on a but it's not a big problem. The problem is if you start to tune it when it's not warm, then you need to re-tune a couple of times. It can go weeks without having to tune it. At first the pitch drops but then rises back to normal after ca 30 minutes and stays there. I can't say I have problems with unstable tuning of the oscillators in a home studio environment. My Model D is an early one SN 1737 with old oscillator boards. But a real synth is something else, it can inspire you to come up with sounds or melodies just by sitting there on a keyboard stand. I have tested the Arturia Minimoog and it sounds very good and in a mix I think it is hard to hear the difference. Some of them will be factory approved, while others will vary from the downright dangerous, through dreadful, to very ingenious and useful. Many minis will have had modifications done on them. Some Minis will have a dead zone circuit fitted to make the pitch wheel centre more easily. But the behaviour is much the same on both. I also prefer the look of the older smooth white wheels compared to the ridged ones of the later models. Kevin Lightner designed an updated opto electronic contact board that replaces the original contact board to get around this very problem. The key contacts will often need to be cleaned and tweaked so that you don't get squirelly notes and unwanted glides. The keyboard is the weak point on all of them. I prefer this simply because it stops the other two VCOs going out of tune when you adjust the octave setting. Some older board ones, and all later ones, have octave buffers and you can tell because it'll have two little lack screws on the back panel just above the blank space in the VCO section. Some older ones (pre s/n 10175) will have newer boards in them. Even the ones with similar serial numbers. There are slight differences between them all though. In any case, I would take any working minimoog. What's the difference between the really expensive minimoogs and the "cheaper" units?
#Arturia minimoog v serial number mod
Are the old boards that much "better" or is it just a pissing contest to see who can have the "most vintage" unit?įor me it's about playing a classic, awesome sounding synth, but it definitely doesn't matter if "this is the only one Rick Wakeman would use" or "because it has the Tk-421 mod that pumps it up a few more quads per channel" or if it was the first one that rolled off the line.don't care, just like the sound and the form and everything else that makes it awesome. I see some selling points listed as "older serial number" or "older, more desirable OSC/boards, etc.but they all seem to be in great condition and fully working so that's a pretty big difference in price. To the untrained eye (mine), they basically look the same, with a few subtle differences in the descriptions. Before I take such a huge plunge on something like this, I'd like to know more about them.įor example- If you look on ebay SOLD (not completed) listings, there are 11 recent sales ranging from $2500-6000 bucks! I've been noodling around on the Arturia Minimoog for so long and now I'm on a hardware kick. I'm not gassing for it too hard, but I know someday I will own one, maybe some of you can relate.
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